Kabobeesh: great food over good aesthetics

Tucked around the obscure corner of 43rd and Chestnut lays a beacon of warmth and comfort for the weary and over worked.

Owned and operated by Pakistani emigres, Kabobeesh provides traditional Pakistani delights from various curries to kabobs cooked on medieval looking steel rods. Set inside an old beat up 1950s diner, it is clear that Kabobeesh is not so much concerned with the pretensions of appearance. Instead food takes precedence over any superficial constructs of ambience.

As a sign of quality for any ethnic restaurant, descendents of Kabobeesh's respective ethnicity coming from all walks of life fill this quaint locale. Looking around one will see men and women of different economic classes, from the slick-haired, sharp-suited business types to the grizzled and worldly workingman. It is Kabobeesh's authenticity that brings together these strangers who may share nothing else than a common national bond and a desire for a little taste of home.

Don't let these traditional patrons discourage the non-Pakistani hungry person, for Kabobeesh opens its doors to all. The men working behind the glass counter are all too friendly and helpful to the ignorant eater, explaining each dish while giving insight to a rich culture. Though you may not be able to understand the 24-hour Pakistani channel playing on the big screen TV in the back, you will at least be able to appreciate the exposure to a distinctive way of life.

While there, try the chicken curry that swims in a smooth yet spicy broth that melts the meat right off the bone. The mellow chickpeas act as the perfect complement to the spiciness of the curry, but if they are not enough of a counter for your sensitive palate fear not for you will find comfort in the finest nan (flatbread cooked in oil on a grill) this side of Islamabad. To wash it all down, do not forget to flash your student ID for a free Coke. So, if you can get passed the booth seating and linoleum tiling that I'm sure would make Stephen Starr gag, stop by Kabobeesh and enjoy an experience where the beauty and of satiating food dominates the cheap thrills of ambience.

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