Feeling at home in the heart of the city

While the idea of Steven Starr filling in for your mother or grandmother may seem a bit odd at first, after a visit to Jones the concept might not seem so unappealing after all.

Jones, Starr's first attempt at genuine down-home cooking, features comfortable seats, comforting service, and most of all, comfort food.

And with just a glance at the menu and a glimpse of the decor -- including tables lit by night-lights -- this becomes abundantly clear.

Warmly lit stone pillars, a fireplace and retro '70s swivel chairs adorning the sunken in dining room only add to the Brady-Bunch-house-esque atmosphere.

If you still can't picture yourself in the kitchen of your childhood home, then all you need to do is open the menu.

It reads like a selection of Mom's home-cooked Sunday dinner specialties: beef brisket with roasted vegetables and gravy, "Thanksgiving Dinner," complete with roast turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy and meatloaf with whipped potatoes and buttered peas.

And if your mother happened to be of English descent, perhaps you will find dishes such as the traditional fish and chips or vegetarian shepherd's pie more to your satisfaction.

And on the off chance that your mother allowed you to drink cocktails growing up, Jones' many drink specialties may take you back to your childhood.

Featuring such fun creations as Daddy's Root Beer Float (vanilla vodka, root beer and cream) and Bug Juice Stoli (raspberry vodka, cranberry juice, sour mix and 7-Up with a gummy worm) as well as a variety of martinis and a large selection of beers and wines, you'll be sure to find something to put you in the spirit.

Looking through the appetizers, the cheese pierogies with caramelized onions stood out -- a dish that my mother makes and that Jones replicated with considerable skill.

On the enthusiatic recommendation of our server, my guest opted for the perfectly flavored Crab and Spinach Dip with crispy pita chips in what was certainly the highlight of the night.

As an entree, I chose a combination of items which I'd had a lot of, but never on the same plate. The fried chicken and waffle platter I selected proved to be a delightful combination of flavors that one would not think could complement each other so well.

My guest decided on the bow tie pasta with fresh mozarella, basil and summer vegetables, which came in a heaping portion that my guest was unfortunately unable to finish.

Thoroughly stuffed and without much room left for dessert, my guest and I shared the desert special -- Angel Food Cake with assortied berries and whipped cream. But despite our full stomachs, it took barely any time for us to polish it off.

With entrees reasonably priced at an average of about $15, and appetizers in the range of about $7, of Starr's many restauraunts Jones offers great tasting food at the best value with its warm atmosphere, graceful service and pleasantly nostalgic food.

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