It's not hard to find a tiny BYOB serving delicious food at a reasonable price in Philadelphia.
But good luck finding one quite so homey and welcoming as L'Angolo, an elegant Italian BYOB converted from a modest South Philadelphia home six years ago.
The warm yellow dining room, adorned with old photographs and flowers, seats no more than 40 guests at a time. The exchanges of Italian between the waitstaff -- and some of the dinner guests as well -- add to the sense of cozy authenticity. Although some might feel a bit cramped when the restaurant is at capacity, this intimacy is one of the restaurant's strengths.
It is apparent when you walk in the door -- the front room is also the kitchen -- that the perfectly-sized portions are prepared with the utmost care. Even the bread is delicious, served fresh out of the oven with a dish of olive oil and complete with actual olives.
For appetizers, we chose Gamberi -- seared shrimp over white beans in a tomato and rosemary coating ($9) -- and Cozze Saltate -- mussels sauteed in a red sauce ($9). The shrimp were small, tender and crisp. The tomato and rosemary offered a strong but not overpowering flavor that complemented both the shrimp and the white beans, which were perfectly firm.
The mussels were plump, juicy and just the right size, although the red sauce was somewhat bland. The portion of mussels was easily large enough for two to share.
For the main dish, I chose one of L'Angolo's nightly specials: two fillets of tilapia sauteed with caramelized onions in a white balsamic vinaigrette, including a mushroom-stuffed risotto cake and steamed broccoli ($21). The tilapia was flaky, firm and tender while the white balsamic vinaigrette added an effective zing to what is naturally a rather plain white fish. The broccoli was an appropriate side dish, although not quite al dente. I was not a fan of the risotto cake, but my date certainly enjoyed it.
He picked the Ravioli Di Aragosta, a homemade lobster ravioli in a light cream sauce ($15.50). The melt-in-your-mouth pasta was obviously fresh and the lobster filling was just enough to balance out the rich taste of the homemade pasta and thin layer of cream sauce.
For dessert, we opted for the tiramisu ($6) -- a must-have in any respectable Italian restaurant -- and a lemon sorbetto ($6). The tiramisu was airy and well-proportioned, while the lemon sorbetto (served in a frozen lemon) served its purpose as a tangy and refreshing end to the meal. Both were good, but the rest of the meal certainly outshone the dessert.
L'Angolo's greatest appeal, however, is the wonderful staff. Perhaps thanks to the small size of the restaurant they seemed always attuned to the needs of their guests -- whether it be leaving the perfect lull between courses, filling the water glasses or offering advice on menu options. By the time we left, waving goodbye to the head chef Nino, I felt as if I had been invited over to a friend's house for dinner.
Part of L'Angolo's charm is also due to its somewhat remote and residential location. Almost two miles south of Center City, it's quite a cab ride from campus. Luckily, it is easily accessible by public transportation, located only a couple of blocks from the Oregon Avenue stop along SEPTA's Broad Street Line.
It's definitely worth the trip, but call ahead -- you'll need a reservation.
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