Fresh Center City seafood with style

What do smooth jazz, a giant squid and panels of color-changing glass have in common? They're all unforgettable trademarks of Sotto Varalli, a stylish Italian restaurant located in the heart of Center City.

Specializing in seafood dishes with an emphasis on cuisine from Northern Italy, the restaurant also draws on Mediterranean influences to round out its menu.

Should you choose to dine on a Friday or Saturday night, you'll enjoy superb smooth jazz from Gerald Benson and Bernard Samuels as you eat. Far from being intruding, the music hit just the right volume to engender pleasant conversation. Combined with the soft patter of the glass waterfall walls that separate dining rooms, the jazz ensemble created a comforting aural pillow throughout our meal.

The patchwork glass bordering the windows and the ceiling are fused with constantly changing polychromatic lights, shifting seamlessly from green to blue to purple and undulating around the spectrum. The glowing mosaic is challenged only by the enormous squid hanging from the ceiling above the sparkling bar as the restaurant's piece de resistance.

Upon entering the establishment, my guest was at a loss for words: "I just love the atmosphere," she gushed. "It's so ... good."

Our waitress, despite starting at the restaurant only a week prior, handled herself with poise. She was extremely attentive without being overbearing.

To begin our meal, my guest and I partook of a handsome combination of various Bruschetta breads, a $13 option. The single appetizer offers enough food to hold over two people until the main course arrives.

I took a chance on the Sunberrie raw oysters on the half-shell. Oysters are a fickle indulgence: they're either a hit or a miss. Unfortunately, here they were a miss, though that's not so much a reflection on the restaurant as the season. Although my guest bravely ventured a try and claimed to enjoy them, I think she was rather taken aback by a taste that's best acquired over time.

A moderately priced, extensive wine list offers helpful suggestions for wines that pair well with fish. The restaurant concentrates on Italian vineyards, but we chose a delightful red from Australia that accompanied both my fish and her pasta in splendid fashion.

While not blown away, my guest was satisfied with her selection of pasta -- the $15 Orecchietti Pollo, a mixture of shell pasta, chicken, spinach, tomatoes and various herbs topped with a light marinara sauce.

My $25 pepper-encrusted tuna dish was a feast for the eyes and mouth. Elegantly arranged and equally delicious, it proved that this restaurant knows its seafood.

Belying the upscale atmosphere, most entrees, especially the pastas, are reasonably priced between $15 and $25.

For dessert, we split a slice Key Lime Pie ($7) and a cup of strawberries and whipped cream ($7). Although the pie didn't compare to the real thing from the Florida Keys that I savored as a kid in Miami, it was a noble attempt for the Northeast.

If you prefer a spectacular view of the Avenue of the Arts, request a table by the windows that line Broad Street. For a more secluded dining experience, opt for the oversize booths in the adjacent dining room. The booths are great for couples who want a bit of privacy, but would work equally well for a friendly group of six or seven.

Due to its convenient location on the Avenue of the Arts, the establishment consistently attracts the pre-theater set. I also observed a few families, a cluster of businessmen and numerous couples rounding out the evening's dinner guests. Typical dress is sophisticated without being pretentious, reflective of the restaurant itself.

If you're looking for an elegant dining experience to share with a date or your parents, consider Sotto Varalli for its winning combination of excellent cuisine and exceptional atmosphere.

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