Rittenhouse Square steakhouse slices through the pack

"He who pays the piper calls the tune" is an adage that definitely rings true at Stephen Starr's new Rittenhouse Square steakhouse, Barclay Prime. The prices are exorbitant, even prohibitive, but if you are willing to pay top dollar and to dress to impress, it is definitely an experience to remember.

Set in the restored dining room of the old Barclay Hotel, the restaurant features a very modern 60s Mod bookcase paneling with lights and books stacked on the shelves. Some of the original balustrades and 19th century chandeliers remain from the original setup. The marble tables and the plush, overstuffed cubical style chairs create a juxtaposition of retro Mod and Old World elegance.

The service borders on obsequious. There have been reports of snobby service from some Penn patrons, but they certainly rolled out the red carpet for this critic. During our meal, we were attended by at least five people, including a sommelier, two servers, two waiters and the maitre d'. The restaurant features an extensive wine list, and we were very satisfied with our Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir.

While the restaurant's specialty is steak, it also offers seafood and salad appetizers. The kobe beef sliders are rumored to be divine as a smaller alternative to the Kobe entrees, but we decided to go with the house's recommendation -- the seafood sampler.

Our selection included shrimp cocktail, crab and kumamoto oysters, but there are up to six alternatives from which you can choose. Succulent large shrimp peeled with two different types of sauce are the highlight of this plate. They were amazing.

The oysters were tasty as well, though small in their shells. As for the crab, the texture was too tough and the flavor was bland.

But the entrees? Stuff of legend.

Our waiter practically begged us to try the angus filet, and the 12-ounce cut did not disappoint. It is served with your choice of nine different types of sauce. Again, I took the house's suggestion of the rosemary with balsamic vinegar. It turned out to be the perfect combination. Served medium rare, the filet rates at the top of almost any scale.

You may have heard that Barclay Prime offers a $100 cheesesteak. We were lucky enough to try it, and it is truly delicious. Served on a brioche roll with tender strips of Kobe beef, Taleggio cheese, lobster and truffle butter, it is a generous portion cut into quarters.

It also comes with a complimentary half-bottle of Veuve Cliquot, an extra incentive to indulge. To better enjoy this luxurious treat, you are offered a choice of four knives from around the world. It's the type of dining experience you won't forget.

The desserts are equally special, if you are among the small group of people that could even think about dessert after such a barrage of food.

While outlandishly expensive to some, Barclay Prime is a great place to dine if you're willing to drop serious dough. Take a date with high standards, and they are likely to be impressed, both by you and the food.

Please note All comments are eligible for publication in The Daily Pennsylvanian.