New Continental locale continues chic, retro tradition

With aqua-colored upholstered booths, hanging basket chairs and a sunken-in lounge area, Continental Midtown's retro feel successfully transports diners back to the fun of the 1950's.

The restaurant -- which opened in August as a second branch of Stephen Starr's original 138 Market Street locale -- has all the glamour of a Starr establishment, without the hefty prices. The menu features a vast array of drinks that are served up at one of three bars. Martinis are the restaurant's speciality and are served in a variety of creative ways. Some even feature Tang.

The fusion cuisine is not divided into courses. Instead, diners share several small dishes, which run the gamut of ethnic cuisine.

My guest and I began with the crab wontons, served with a sweet and sour chili sauce ($9). The fried appetizer was a bit bland, but the sauce added some flavor to the dish.

Tofu chive dumplings with a roasted garlic, chili and sweet soy sauce ($6) followed next. Even non-vegetarians could definitely enjoy the moist, doughy texture of the dumplings, which were flavored with just the right amount of chive.

Though the plate of seared tuna with mushroom risotto ($15) was a bit on the small side, the quality of the dish overwhelmed the quantity. The tuna was served rare and crusted with spices, and the risotto was rich and chock-full of meaty mushrooms.

The fish was perfectly complimented by a side order of wasabi mashed potatoes. The potatoes were creamy and not too spicy; they had just enough wasabi to give them a little kick.

A huge bowl of tofu pad-thai ($11) concluded our main course. The noodles were spiced with an intense blend of Asian flavors. The dish was a bit strong for my taste, but my guest enjoyed it thoroughly.

Continental's desserts were the highlight of our meal. The restaurant classifies these dishes as "dessert tapas." The portions are cheap (only $3 each) but tiny, and diners are meant to sample two or three. My guest and I opted for strawberry shortcake, chocolate truffles, a root beer float and the daily cotton candy flavor.

The strawberry shortcake was a miniature version of the classic dessert. The delicate cake was topped with basil steeped strawberries and vanilla ice cream. The basil added a unique element to the dish, and gave a new twist to the traditional favorite.

The root beer float came in a small glass -- about the size of two shot glasses -- and featured sour cherry ice cream. It was fizzy and thick.

The three chocolate truffles featured an outer fried shell with melted chocolate inside. When I bit into the bite-sized morsel, the chocolate exploded in my mouth and definitely pleased my taste buds.

The cotton candy flavor of the day was sour apple ($3.50). My guest convinced me to order it, and I was a bit hesitant to eat carnival food at such a chic restaurant, but it turned out to be the best part of our meal. The neon green color and sugary flavor was the perfect end to a fun evening.

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