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"It was so good that we almost threw up."

This is precisely what my guest and I told our waiter last Thursday evening, when he asked whether we enjoyed our meal at Spasso Italian Grill. We certainly did.

As self-proclaimed Philadelphia restaurant connoisseurs, we validly and rightfully decided that Spasso is an excellent location for anyone in the mood for traditional Italian food of epic portions. Plus, it had the best creme brulee we have ever tasted.

When we first entered the restaurant we were slightly suspicious, since the large dining area was empty except for one elderly couple. But it was only 6 p.m., and by 7:30 it was beginning to fill.

The decor is stereotypical Italian, with exposed brick on one wall and a mural of what we presumed to be an Italian village on the other. The lighting was dim enough to be flattering but not too dark that the menu was unreadable. A nice balance was achieved between the two extremes.

Overall, the food was great. The complimentary bread arrived with a grilled vegetable topping a la 1920 Commons salad bar, but infinitely better. Possible reasons for this could be the addition of a sweetened vinegar or sugar. The house salad ($7.25) and the Caesar salad ($7) were enormous and, despite the slight excess of dressing, tasted fresh and crisp.

My guest's entree was a seafood variety over homemade linguine with a marinara sauce (Zuppa Di Pesce, $18.25).

Although she said she was eating the entire cast of the Little Mermaid and that the dish had a very strong, smoky seafood taste, she maintained that it was thoroughly enjoyable. Since the menu included a message stating that the chef would attempt to make any dish not on the menu, I ordered steamed mussels in a marinara sauce. They arrived in a huge bowl and the sauce was neither to creamy nor too rich. Yet still, I was able to finish all of them.

We ordered both a creme brulee ($5.25) and tiramisu ($6) for dessert, both of which were unearthly good. The creme brulee had a very potent vanilla flavor and the top layer had that incredible burnt caramel flavor. Anyone visiting Spasso absolutely must try it. And if you want good creme brulee just for the fun of it, Spasso is a great option.

The prices were reasonable, with entrees ranging from about $14 to $20. Though it is not the typical cozy Italian BYO that one might expect from Philadelphia, Spasso is definitely worth visiting either for lunch or in a large group. It may not be as intimate as some might like for dates, but the water is right across the road, giving the front few tables a pleasing view.

On a scale of one to unbelievably amazing, I give it at least a really amazing and a half.

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