In 1675 King Charles II issued a proclamation to suppress coffeehouses in England. Claiming that they are "the great resort of idle and disaffected persons" and "have produced very evil and dangerous effects," he ordered that they be destroyed. Three long (and caffeine free) weeks later, the edict was revoked.
Had the law remained on the books, not only would college students find themselves homeless during the wee hours of the morning the day of a big paper, but Philadelphians would be deprived of the coffee excellence tucked away on 15th and Walnut streets, Cafe Hausbrandt.
Take out a map of Italy and find the city of Trieste. In the northern most corner of eastern Italy on the border with Slovenia you'll find a small city that is Italy's unofficial coffee capital. Fast-forward three hundred years to Trieste of 2004-host to the World Barista Championships. Trieste was a fitting setting for the championship as it is also the home of Hausbrandt Trieste 1892, the company that is the exclusive provider of coffee for all Hausbrandt Cafes worldwide.
While the cafes have been flourishing all over Europe, a year and a half ago the company decided to challenge itself and attempt to infiltrate the City of Brotherly Love, a city that is known for its high coffee saturation. The cross Atlantic has fared well for the Italian cafe and native Philadelphians and European expatriates alike are flocking to the first American outpost of the Italian chain in Center City Philadelphia.
Hausbrandt is first and foremost an espresso bar. While they serve pastries, scones, and traditional Italian panettone, their coffee, cappuccino, and espresso is what draws the regulars back each day. The menu lists two-dozen ways to enjoy the Italian roasted coffee beans-but even a coffee novice would not feel out of place.
The staff is authentically Italian -- in both their accent and friendliness -- they're eager to help out and will voice their personal coffee preferences upon request. A quick crash course in coffee was helpful. Yet, while the difference between a latte and cappuccino is an important life lesson, there's no way to make a bad choice at Hausbrandt.
The service is attentive but slow. Yet, the customers don't seem to mind the unhurried pace. Coffee to stay is served in wide white mugs and patrons linger, long after they've polished off the last drop of their macchiato.
Surprisingly, the trademark drink at Hausbrandt is not coffee straight up. Their green tea latte ($3), though, is a refreshingly different blend of two traditional caffeinated drinks from very different cultures.
On a recent Sunday morning the cafe was filled with local Center City residents cozying up with their Sunday newspapers, using the free wireless internet, or catching up on the latest Italian news from the array of Italian-language newspapers available at the bar.
Weekday clientele at the cafe tends to include business professionals from the surrounding offices, as well as students. While there was quiet music in the background, the noise level hovered at a whisper.
Hausbrandt Cafe is not an ideal place for your typical coffee klatch, yet the conversation-free atmosphere allows bona fide coffee enthusiasts an uninterrupted dining experience devoted entirely to the enjoyment of their cappuccino.
The cafe is dimly lit but decorated tastefully with a combination of Philadelphia artists and vintage Italian posters. The first thing one notices upon entering is the eclectic collection of chairs in the small cafe. Mirroring its diverse clientele, no two chairs are alike.
Take a seat in one of the mismatched chairs in front of the large windows looking out onto 15th street. "Restaurants are to people in the 80's what theatres were to people in the 60's. I read it in a magazine." It was true in "When Harry Met Sally" and it still holds true today.
From the native Philadelphian who knows a good brew when he sees it to the Italian emigre who needs a double shot of caffeine and homespun culture, Hausbrandt Cafe is the perfect place to people watch-and enjoy a first-rate cup of coffee.
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