Night-club owner turned restaurateur Stephen Starr dares to transcend the boundaries of genre and form that restrict more traditional eateries, with a recent addition to his all-star Philadelphia lineup -- Washington Square.
This chic Old City hot spot, located at 210 Washington Square, is a hybrid in both categories of food and decor -- the menu is graced with Asian, French and Indian accents and the seating area is part lush outdoor patio, part intimate indoor dining room.
But this identity crisis seems to serve Washington Square well, as the indoor-outdoor combination transitions effectively to create an elegant and soothing atmosphere, and the fusion cuisine allows diners to experience a diverse number of tastes, all of which are sure to please.
Patrons enter the restaurant through the semi-open-air patio, with only squares of pale fabric draped overhead separating them from the Philadelphia sky. Padded lounge chairs and low tables complement the expansive outdoor bar -- one of two bars that Washington Square boasts.
The indoor bar is situated in the heart of the restaurant, and is bordered by numerous dimly lit dining rooms, furnished in dark wood and lightly toned upholstered seating.
The menu is organized in classic Starr fashion, innovatively divided into "bites," "small plates" and "large plates." The bites are similar in portion size to traditional Spanish tapas and are uniformly priced at $5 each. The small plates serve as appetizer-esque fare, and the large plates can be treated as entrees, but all dishes are designed for sharing. There is also a "grill" section of the menu, which comprises fish and meat sans sauce or side dishes -- naked, if you will.
The meal begins with a bread basket including cornbread madeleines, traditional sourdough slices and a large but paper-thin spiced cracker. A duo of spreads -- one curry-infused and the other avocado-based -- accompany the breads.
As an appetizer, the lobster dumplings were of particular note. The lightly fried pockets were stuffed with a rich lobster concoction and served alongside both a soy dipping sauce and a cream reduction.
The grill items also proved flavorful, with the moist and tender salmon filet imparting a smoky nuance to the meal.
Despite the highlights of the main menu, the final course overshadowed the previous offerings. Also meant to share, the desserts come split into miniature portions.
Arranged on a long white platter, three chocolate banana ice cream sandwiches were paired with a shot glass-sized sour cherry ice cream soda.
Another dessert worth the taxi ride downtown in and of itself were the two bite-sized chocolate molten cakes, which came flanking a scoop of rich coconut ice cream. The dish was bordered by two dollops of spiced foam.
Ultimately, the sophisticated ambiance and exquisite cuisine make Washington Square a worthwhile splurge for a special night out.
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