Hands-on African fare at Dahlak

A safe haven for the cash-strapped, dining utensils-challenged undergrad, Dahlak has been a local institution for over 20 years. Housed at 4708 Baltimore Ave. -- with another site that opened recently in Germantown -- the restaurant offers traditional Eritrean and Ethiopian fare in a family-style spread. Parties use handfuls of injera bread to scoop up shared entrees, none of which cost over $10.

My companion and I arrived at Dahlak during Philadelphia's brush with Hurricane Jeanne. Our jeans were soaked, largely from the moat outside Harnwell College House, and we were cold and dripping. The very kind, tolerant restaurant staff led us to plush seats surrounding a squat, wooden reed table and fed us mango juice, as we enjoyed the cozy, warmly lit ambiance. I was surprised to note that, despite the rising floodwaters, we were definitely not the only patrons at that hour.

Reflected in both the service and the presentation of food is a philosophy of openness and fraternity. Restaurant owner Amare Solomon not only joined us for our meal, but also insisted that we try any entree that sounded interesting to us -- probably six people's worth of food on his pre-selected tray, and then some -- as well as two desserts, ginger-flavored coffee and hot tea. The result was a strikingly colorful, aromatic jumble of collared greens, cubes of lamb, berbere shrimp and tomato and chili salad on broad, flat injera.

Solomon's specialties include lamb dishes and a long list of vegetarian entrees -- which are often intricately seasoned, in the absence of meat's natural flavor. My companion's favorite dish was the zigene ($7.25), spicy minced beef stewed in berbere sauce. The meat was tender and the sauce rich and piquant, yet unobtrusive. Solomon told us that any entree can be cooked to taste, made mild or spicy according to diners' preferences.

We both liked the yebeg tibs ($8), cubes of lamb broiled with peppers and onion. Again, the sauce was spare but subtly delicious, and it served to magnify the lamb's natural flavors. Of the vegetarian entrees, we both enjoyed the shuro watt ($6.75), powdered and highly seasoned chick peas in a mild sauce.

Solomon explained that he has a special affection for the Penn community, having worked as a 1920 Commons cook for more than a decade until 2002. The Penn Shuttle Service goes to 47th Street and Baltimore Avenue, making a trip to Dahlak cost-free and convenient at any hour. Also, the restaurant's bar employs and caters to Penn graduate students.

Well-suited for groups, Dahlak offers affordable food in a friendly, hands-on atmosphere.

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