Food doesn't always have to be fancy to be good.
Seafood, especially, is the kind of food that sometimes works better without the gussying up an upscale place might try.
Sansom Street Oyster House is a restaurant, on the other hand, that relies more on serving seafood that is fresh and high-quality, rather than on sauces, beds of greens or Asian fusion. It's the seafood that's the star here, and head chef/owner Cary Neff is more than content to let it take the spotlight.
Take, for example, the smoked mussel appetizer ($6.50). The mussels, smoked in-house, are served bare, with a spicy lime sauce for dipping. The mussels suffered slightly, it seemed, from their time in the smoker, coming out smallish for their shell size, and slightly dry, but had an intriguing flavor reminiscent of good lox. The dipping sauce along with it, though it might be too spicy for some, did a good job of complementing the flavor of the mussels without overwhelming them.
A roasted oyster appetizer ($9.50) featured four large oysters which had been perfectly cooked -- still plump, and just firm. A parsley, garlic and butter topping added flavor without masking the flavor of the oysters themselves.
Entrees, too, followed a less-is-more philosophy successfully. The shore platter ($19.50) included an oyster Rockefeller, broiled scallops, broiled flounder, a crab-stuffed shrimp and a baked clam. All of the offerings were somewhat plain, but the flavor of high-quality seafood was enough. A baked potato and asparagus, slightly overcooked though still clearly fresh, came on the side.
Even in a town that has given the world plenty of unusual flavor combinations (Cheez Wiz and poor-quality beef, for one), fried oysters and chicken salad ($15) stands out. It is a weird pairing at first, but the flavors do work surprisingly well together. The fried oysters were enormous, juicy and not too heavily breaded, though the chicken salad left a little to be desired.
Desserts, made in-house, were slightly uneven. Key lime pie tasted of concentrate, instead of the real thing, but was still fine. The pumpkin pie, however, went above and beyond with a slightly unorthodox crumb topping paired perfectly with a rich, spicy filling and a delicate crust.
It can be hard to find good seafood in this area, and harder still to find a restaurant willing to let its fish speak for itself, but Sansom Street Oyster House does it, and does it well.
The Daily Pennsylvanian is an independent, student-run newspaper. Please consider making a donation to support the coverage that shapes the University. Your generosity ensures a future of strong journalism at Penn.
DonatePlease note All comments are eligible for publication in The Daily Pennsylvanian.
