From seafood to steak, fine dining is smooth sailing aboard Moshulu

Moshulu, the largest four-masted sailing ship in the world, has survived two world wars, a fire and the collapse of Pier 34 in May 2000, which put the boat's restaurant on a commercial hiatus that just ended this summer.

Nevertheless, she and her revamped contemporary American menu were in ship-shape as of last week.

Moshulu's interior features a classic luxury ship decor with a modern zen twist, with tall orchids placed on each table, Eastern-inspired geometrical flatware and a flat screen flashing underwater scenes.

The restaurant offers scads of seating, including private party facilities -- however, if it's possible, try to secure a table on the Delaware River side of the ship, which promises a view of the sunset and moonrise over the water.

The ship's menu -- with new executive chef Ralph Fernandez at the helm -- is inclusive, and while it does not offer many vegetarian options, it assures the perfect dish for red meat eaters, fish lovers and seafood aficionados alike.

Even more eclectic than the menu was the venue's soundtrack that night, which ranged from Elton John ballads to Indian pop.

From the selection of first courses -- which ran from a $6 tortilla soup to a $16 foie gras -- my guest and I chose the delicate yet substantial $13 Maine lobster and shrimp risotto and the $12 Maryland lump crab cake.

The crab cake maintained an ideal balance between moisture and lightness, and the corn and black bean salsa on top gave it a unique Southwestern flair that garnered approval even from this native Marylander.

For our entrees, we selected the char-grilled filet mignon ($29) and the pan-seared Long Island duck breast ($25). The filet mignon was juicy and complemented well by the mashed potatoes, asparagus and lump crab that accompanied it.

The slices of duck -- kept perfectly moist under a thin layer of fat -- were served with green beans, a sesame duck confit strudel and mango pineapple salsa, which all blended together in an autumnal, fruity savor.

To round off the dinner, our pleasant waiter recommended a $9 glass of Merlot from the wine menu, an extensive list of over 100 wines that vary between $27 and $160 per bottle.

Following dinner, we ordered our desserts -- a moist-in-the-middle bittersweet chocolate cake garnished with banana slices and a creamy lemon cheesecake partnered with a pile of fresh strawberries.

Although Moshulu's restaurant is no bargain, approximately $50 a head is a reasonable price to pay for fine dining that deserves a star for each of its four masts.

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