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Perrier's brasserie carves own niche

By Andrew DeLaney and Ashley Parker 02/26/03 5:00am
[Ari Friedman/The Daily Pennsylvanian]

Georges Perrier is a giant among giants in the Philadelphia restaurant scene. Brasserie Perrier is not Le Bec-Fin -- the crown jewel of Perrier's restaurant empire. Luckily for the self-esteem of Perrier's second restaurant, it does not try to be. And while it may exist both figuratively and literally in Le Bec-Fin (it is at 1619 Walnut Street -- less than a block away) it is a different atmosphere. Brasserie Perrier is marginally less formal and comes much closer to fitting in a realistic college student's budget, staying true to its brasserie inspiration. And yet the restaurant delivers world-class French food that comes with having the Perrier name attached.

Brasserie Perrier 1619 Walnut Street (215) 568-3000 Fare: French
As we entered and viewed the extensive, 65-seat bar and the lively conversation that flowed from the attached seating area, it was apparent that this was far from a normal, stuffy formal restaurant. Coming into the main dining area, the subdued colors and lighting befit the more relaxed and spirited atmosphere that is conducive to both laughter and flights of fancy which the brasserie hopes to accomplish. We started with the French Onion Soup, Gruyere Crouton ($9). The soup was subtle yet flavorful, and the strong cheese ensured a fresh taste to the last spoonful. Chris Scarduzio, the executive chef at Brasserie Perrier, is generally considered one of the more inventive chefs in the city. To sample a more creative hors d'oeuvre, we ordered the Seared Potato and Goat Cheese Terrine ($13). The unusual yet insightful pairing of subtle flavors worked well together, and the presentation ensured it was pleasing to the eye and the palate. We also ordered as an appetizer, in a slightly less adventurous spirit, a Roasted Maine Lobster ($14). The tail was complemented wonderfully by shiitake mushrooms, asparagus and chili soy butter, bringing out new tastes from an old favorite. For the main course, we each passed on Scarduzio's signature piece, the Crispy Sea Bass ($35), rather indulging in the Peking Duck Breast and Duck Leg Confit ($32) and the Potato Crusted Halibut ($35). And indulge we did. The duck came masterfully presented with the tender sliced leg sitting atop the breast. The portions were more than ample as well as delicious. The meat's flavor was brought out by the unique yet satisfying side dish of turnips cooked in cider. The halibut made it clear that even if sea bass is Scarduzio's speciality, it is not the only fish he can fry. The fish was light enough to give the entire meal the texture of a potato latke, and it was a particularly light and fluffy one at that. We had for dessert the Tiramisu ($9) and a Warm Chocolate Cake with a liquid center ($9). The cake was a delicious if somewhat structurally unsound conclusion. Despite the chocolate, it did not feel particularly heavy even at the end of the hearty feast. The tiramisu was done to perfection as well. The desserts were a wonderful cap to as fine a meal as we have ever had in the city.
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