The man behind the meat

They'll serve it to you just the way you want it -- anything from a "Big-Ass-Brownie" to the "Restaurant School Special."

Koch's Deli, a local delicatessen known for its big sandwiches and thick milkshakes, has been stretching the waistbands of Penn students for years.

Bob Koch, the owner of the 4309 Locust Street store, seems to be in his element at the crowded shop. His walls are covered in posters, paraphernalia and clippings from decades of ownership. The background rock 'n roll music and the banter of the customers and the staff creates a loud but friendly environment where anyone can feel at home.

Students from Penn and neighborhood food lovers alike frequent the shop -- often waiting in long lines and crowded quarters -- but Koch says that he loves the store just the way it is.

"People often say 'Why don't you move closer to campus?' but I won't have it any other way," he says. "It's the diversity of the area that really makes the place great."

While others are inclined to agree, Koch himself is looked at as a focal point of the store.

"He never forgets a name," says Josh Palley, a Koch's regular and College junior. "He knows everybody."

Palley was introduced to Koch's as a small child, but says that when he got into Penn, his father brought him back to the store for a reintroduction and a much-needed hearty sandwich.

"I love this place," Palley continues. "I enjoy the wait in line. You're always going to have such a great time and a great sandwich."

The possible monotony of the sometimes hour-and-a-half long wait is eased by the store itself.

As Koch and his crew make sandwiches, they send a variety of meats and cheeses down the line. Additionally, the mouth-watering samples are accompanied by Koch's character and jokes.

Palley says simply that "it's worth the wait."

Arthur Gradstein, a Wharton sophomore and "Koch's virgin," was brought to the deli by Palley, and says that "it's pretty neat that there were free samples."

After eating his sandwich, Gradstein proclaims it to be "everything it was cracked up to be."

The sandwich "was meaty and delicious," Gradstein says. "It was a good sandwich, good meat, good cheese. I'll be a regular at Koch's now."

But beyond the free samples and the great sandwiches, the atmosphere at Koch's makes the deli a spectacular place to be, claim loyal customers.

"There's a lot of history there," Gradstein says. "I had a conversation with Koch as he made my sandwich and he really doesn't forget your name. It's just a good experience."

It's not just an experience worth waiting for, it may even be one worth a journey.

Jay Levin, a 1992 Penn graduate, has been coming to Koch's since he came to Penn in 1987.

His brothers, Doug and Gary -- a 1990 Penn graduate -- visited Jay from their home in Cleveland.

"They say they came here from Cleveland to see me, but really, I think it's definitely just to go to Koch's," Jay explains.

"It's the best deli in the world," he says. "It's just incredible."

Amidst arguments about the best Koch sandwich, Gary agrees with his brother, adding, "No one minds [the waits]. It's always worth it for the great sandwiches and bad jokes."

The brothers are old regulars, as everybody at Koch's knows, but there have been many more such afficionados since the store opened 36 years ago.

"My mother and father opened the deli in June 1966," Koch says. "At that point, I was a student and I just worked summers. I was eventually drafted and when I came back [from Vietnam] I didn't go back to school, but I came and worked whenever my family needed me."

In addition to his work at the deli, Koch became a city police officer in 1975.

"My whole family was police officers," he laughs.

But after ten years, he left his law-enforcement position to run the store full time with his brother Lou.

Koch now spends his days at the deli, making sandwiches, chatting with the customers and telling jokes -- often jokes that could be termed "off-color," but ones that never fail to leave his customers in stitches.

But Koch doesn't think that his jokes phase his "gorgeous, beautiful wife Pat."

Koch, 55, and his wife live in the area, just west of the deli -- they have no children. A Philadelphia native, Koch has spent the majority of his life in the City of Brotherly Love.

Although he may be termed "curmudgeon-like" by some customers and staff members, Koch nevertheless claims that he enjoys his time in the city and at the deli.

But despite his friendly, comfortable demeanor, Koch has also dealt with some hardships.

His brother Lou died in November of 1995, leaving Bob to run the store. However, Barry, the third Koch brother, is always ready to lend a hand when needed.

Last April, Bob Koch was involved in a car accident. The accident, which took place Apr. 14 at 48th and Locust streets left Koch with multiple injuries and much pain.

"I'm still in a lot of pain," Koch says. "I may even need surgery on my arm."

Soon after, on May 16, Koch's mother passed away.

The deli was closed for much of the summer due to the family's loss and Koch's injuries. They reopened to their regular hours only last month.

"I'm sad about losing my mother," Koch says. "But it was really really nice to see the outpouring of support that came in when I was in my accident and after my mother died.

"It was really really nice to know that everyone cared that much."

Many of the letters now line the walls of the deli, demonstrating his customers' love for the small deli on the corner.

And Koch loves them back.

"I wouldn't be anyplace but here," he says. "I love it here."

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