Saloon: steak without flash

Unassumingly perched on a quiet block in South Philadelphia is the unsung hero of the city's steakhouses.

Not as flashy or centrally located as its competitors in City Hall's shadow, Saloon often escapes notice among Philly's temples to red meat. But those who do venture south are generously rewarded by some of the finest Italian cuisine and juiciest cuts of meat in all of Philadelphia.

Stepping into Saloon's brick home on South Seventh Street is akin to stepping back in time to the Italian South Philadelphia of the early 20th century. The dark wood paneling and antique posters of prize fighters and trans-Atlantic steamers set the tone in this quiet, uncrowded space. Its Old World charm is the perfect accompaniment to the hearty meal to come -- a meal that, as at all self-respecting Italian restaurant, is staggering in size from start to finish.

Among appetizers, the exquisite saccotino ($18) is the way to go. A delicious pasta pouch filled with ricotta cheese, diced vegetables and assorted shellfish -- shrimp, lobster and crab -- the saccotino is a wonderfully creative and delicate start to the meal.

Another fantastic pasta starter, the gnocchi ($15) is a perfect balance of pasta and sauce. Served with the diner's choice of marinara, creamy tomato or alfredo sauce, it provided a light, Italian contrast to the heavy meat-eating to come. The marinara, in particular, is a highlight.

Though the wonders of the appetizer menu may lead you to think otherwise, the heart and soul of this "cucina italiana" is the steak. Saloon takes its meat seriously, and the effort is well worth it.

The porterhouse ($42), best served on the rare side, is perhaps the restaurant's finest cut of lovingly grilled beef. Exceedingly tender and juicy, the tenderloin portion is the perfect example of Saloon's tried-and-true cuisine.

For those intimidated by huge hunks of red meat, the menu offers a variety of pasta and fish alternatives, but the veal double chop ($43) sticks out among the distinguished crowd. Served au jus with a side of mashed potatoes, the amount of veal loin is staggering, but its buttery tenderness leaves its lucky eater pining for more.

Of course, no fine Italian meal would be complete without coffee and dessert, and Saloon's tray of fine confections can easily stack up against the finest in Philadelphia.

The standouts include a wonderful tiramisu ($8); the famous combination of marscapone cheese cream and coffee-soaked lady fingers is made the traditional way to such perfection here that it leads one to wonder why any alteration in the recipe would be needed. Also highly recommended is flourless chocolate cake a la mode ($12), an intensely rich, semi-sweet treat.

It is impossible to step out on to Seventh Street after a meal without feeling satisfied and sated by this South Philly gem. It's well worth the price -- and well worth the trip.

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