Old country charm, in South Philly

Just a few blocks from the heart of the Italian Market, tucked into an unassuming South Philadelphia residential block, lies one of the city's true culinary -- and cultural -- gems.

For over 100 years now, Dante and Luigi's has been satisfying Philadelphia's appetite for hearty Italian dishes with all the charm and warmth of the old country.

I first discovered Dante and Luigi's as a freshmen, and the little restaurant at 10th and Catharine streets struck me as a great place to dine for any special meal. The two dining rooms right off the main hall, painted with soft pastels and boasting a few pieces of impressionist art, definitely have a family feel to them, but the atmosphere makes any group feel welcome. On the night we went a little more than a week ago, my friend and I ate surrounded by families, businesspersons, couples and students.

I started with the Caprese Salad, which was really big enough to make a meal in and of itself. Big slices of juicy, crisp tomato topped with delicate but healthy portions of buffalo mozzarella were the perfect way to start the meal. My friend ordered a caesar salad, which, though a staple at most American restaurants now, was truly excellent with rich, creamy dressing.

While we waited for our entrees to come out, we enjoyed warm bread accompanied by some "special" olive oil the waiter "whipped up" for us. The spices and cheese blended into the high-quality oil were the perfect accompaniment for a high-quality Italian meal.

For the main course, though I was strongly tempted to order the veal parmigiana (the red gravy at Dante's is amazing), I decided to be a little more adventurous and order one of the specials -- succulent veal cutlets and shrimp cooked with spinach and covered in a wonderful white wine sauce. The dish was excellent, and the veal was some of the best I've ever tasted.

But I did get to sample some of my much-loved Dante and Luigi's tomato sauce, as my friend ordered lasagna -- which must have filled a whole pan.

It was excellent, and I had a few bites. But my friend consumed the lion's share of the pasta, an impressive feat.

When it came time for the final course, my hunger had long been satisfied, but the lemon sorbet was just too tempting to pass up. The delicate frozen treat came packaged in the rind of an actual lemon, which made a pleasant visual presentation for the lovely desert.

My friend ordered the ricotta cheesecake. This was delicious, but difficult to consume following the pile of lasagna he had just eaten.

At the end of the evening, both of us washed down the remnants of our food with fine espresso and coffee.

So when you're in the mood to eat Italian, don't stop in Center City -- head a few blocks south to Dante and Luigi's. The food, while not cheap, is certainly not overpriced -- especially given its very high quality. The servers are always very friendly and attentive without hovering.

One trip, and I have a feeling most people will understand why this is now my favorite restaurant in the city.

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