Around the world in continental style

We never did figure out exactly which continent the restaurant's name refers to -- the menu draws from the cuisines of at least five continents. But we do know that we want to move there and never come back.

Once an authentic 1950s diner, the Continental Restaurant and Martini Bar received a sleek overhaul in 1995, when Philadelphia restaurant tycoon Stephen Starr took on the project. A clunky, aluminum exterior -- unchanged from its diner days -- belies the sophisticated, retro-chic ambience, complete with Eames chairs, vinyl barstools and metal-rimmed formica tables.

The furthest departure from Continental's diner roots was the set of light fixtures that resembled toothpick-speared olives. They kept screaming martini -- and we kept telling ourselves it was a Tuesday night.

But even on a weeknight, the booths, tables and stools of the popular Old City bar and tapas restaurant were packed. The after-work crowd was mostly black-clad yuppies. But don't be intimidated. The servers are so nice you'll even remember their names: ours was Jasmine.

At first we were a little overwhelmed. The drink menu was so long it had its own table of contents -- in addition to Continental's signature martinis, options ranged from beer, wine and champagne to all manner of cocktails. And the tapas-style menu included a diverse, sometimes bizarre, jumble of appetizers and entrees, drawing from Pan-Asian, European, Middle Eastern, Mexican and American influences.

After some agonizing decisions, we started with the Continental salad, a daunting mountain of crisp greens, feta cheese and chopped cucumber, tomato and red pepper in a simple vinaigrette. It could have been a satisfying dinner for two by itself.

We also ordered a plate of grilled tofu, which came marinated in a teriyaki dressing, along with a peanut dipping sauce and a cabbage slaw -- which was not to be confused with anything Cole ever dreamed up. Even an ardent carnivore would have to admit the merits of this dish.

As full as we were, we eagerly anticipated the next set of innovative fusions to emerge from the kitchen. The first to arrive was a more traditional dish, but still well-executed -- a plate of spinach-ravioli in marinara sauce, garnished with crystalized spinach leaves. Why, oh why, did Popeye eat his spinach from a can, when there is such an intriguing alternative?

Our other entree was seared tuna -- an Asian-inspired dish that has become ubiquitous among trendy restaurants. But Continental's version was a welcome change, pairing the fresh, almost raw tuna with a cheesy mushroom risotto. The combination of Italian and Japanese cuisines worked surprisingly well, and the richness of the risotto was an effective counterpoint to the light, simple tuna.

Our curiosity surpassed our reason -- we already had far too much food on the table -- and we ordered a side of wasabi mashed potatoes. Creamy, and with a subtle bite, the recipe delighted our homesick palates and cleared our sinuses.

With one course to go, the dessert menu made decisions difficult. The list included all the traditional diner sweets: carrot cake, a banana split (with brownie croutons) and even s'mores. We opted for the chocolate hazelnut bread pudding, a la mode with caramel sauce, and it didn't disappoint.

Continental proved an unexpected pleasure -- surprisingly delicious, surprisingly affordable and surprisingly friendly. So if you've walked by a thousand times and peered in longingly, stop pressing your nose up against the glass and go on in.

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