Sweet and lowdown at popular Django

Django Reinhardt would be proud.

The early 20th-century guitar legend -- a gypsy from Belgium -- would feel right at home at the elegantly-charming BYOB that bears his name.

He'd likely sit back, relax and enjoy the small dining room's unassuming, warm atmosphere, thanks to the friendly service and mellow music in the background -- including some of his own hits and more modern flamenco-esque, European guitar-driven tunes.

Django's cozy atmosphere is enhanced by details such as the soft lighting provided by hanging glass lanterns. The tables, set close together, might have seemed crowded if the attention from our waitress hadn't been so personal and sincere.

This relatively young bistro is quickly emerging as one of the most popular restaurants in Philadelphia -- potential guests are advised to make reservations weeks in advance.

But as long as Django Reinhardt could get a table, we're sure he'd like the food, too.

Miniature polenta cakes with their delicate texture and mix of serrano ham and a bit of red pepper warmed up our palettes -- and established that at Django, unique presentation is as important as taste. After all, next came the homemade bread, as authentic as the flowerpot it was furnished in.

The appetizers didn't disappoint. The stuffed roasted quail ($11) was as filling as an entree, and the raisins, adorning the main item, made for a nice match for the plump bird. While lobster fricas‚e is a common offering at many restaurants, Django's presentation ($10) set it apart. Carefully nestled in a coil of winter squash, it was ribboned with tender greens and enjoyed over a bed of red beets.

Django presents a new menu every month, and February's entrees include the stew-like lamb with white bean cassoulet ($23) which was by itself a hearty country-feast adventure. The medium-rare lamb was juicy and the sausage savory in this dish of assorted meats.

Tender and expertly cooked, the roasted duck breast ($19) had qualities standard of any fine meat, but the sauce was what made it memorable. A creamy departure from conventional glazed duck sauces, this perfect complement added spicy character to an otherwise traditional dish. But to those who choose this entree, be advised: early liberal dousing may leave you wondering why no sauce is left for your last bites.

The generous portions of our appetizers and entrees left us little room for dessert. But rarely does the final course provide as much closure to a fine meal as it does at Django.

Crispy Phyllo describes a pastry far too elegant for its name. Creme brul‚e ($6) peeked between the flaky sheets of phyllo and slices of basted pineapple. The layers towered atop a pool of ginger-brandy caramel. This dessert proved large enough to split but difficult to share.

Not as sweet but just as rich was the Artisan cheese plate ($9). Just finishing off the eclectic array of cheeses, all of which matched well with our Shiraz, was a feat for the ages. And one of the cheeses -- the six-year gouda -- was older than our wine itself.

Particularly notable was the extremely strong Highfield goat blue, aged 10 months. It was so strong, in fact, that its pungence lingered on our forks throughout the rest of dessert. To start, we sampled the forme d'ambert, the least intimidating choice, and the soft brie provided fine contrast to some of the more powerful tastes.

The lighter flavor of apples and walnuts mingled between the selections to provide respite from the rigors of finishing the delightful but intense cheese plate. Topping off the meal was the creamy picandou goat cheese -- which, with a dab of honey, was a reward in and of itself, offering an ending as sweet and satisfying as a Django Reinhardt guitar tune.

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