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Andrew Margulies

What was once an old toy store hidden on a quiet street in Old City now offers any food connoisseur a variety of fine cuisine with an urban twist.

Novelty Restaurant and Bar, located on Third Street between Market and Chestnut streets, provides elegant dining in cozy, yet trendy, surroundings. With smokey ash-tinted windows enclosing a darkly-furnished and romantically-lit interior, stepping into the restaurant is like entering another world.

As the maitre d' took our coats, my companion and I were seated in a one-sided booth which ran the length of the restaurant, separating the dining area from the bar. Our waitress immediately came to tell us about the "novelty" specials, which made our ears perk up.

The small but extensive menu caters to everyone from the vegetarian to the red meat lover, offering a wide selection of fish and poultry. The large wine selection left my head spinning, so I let my companion choose a red wine cabernet.

We were easily persuaded to try the novelty box appetizer, which also comes as an entree, to start off our meal. Served on a tray with four separate dishes, I made the daring decision to sample the scallops first. The mouth-watering fish was fresh and savory, at which point my companion and I dove into the other three dishes -- dumplings, pan-seared tuna and salmon. Although I am usually averse to trying anything new, each one was more intriguing than the next, but the scallops took the prize.

Our friendly waitress informed us that in addition to the delicious appetizer, we could each enjoy an entree and a dessert for the grand price of $25 per person. Such an offer should not be refused for those who wish to experience fine dining at an affordable price.

The main course was presented to us like two pieces of art work that belonged in a museum. My companion chose the filet mignon, which was encircled by four spirals of mashed potatoes ($23). I had decided upon veal, marinated in a scallion sauce atop a pile of a blend of rice and vegetables ($19). The veal was perfectly cooked and sweet to the senses. I sampled my companion's filet mignon and instantly remembered how much I love a good steak.

While enjoying every enticing bite, I noticed the large staff constantly running back and forth through the dining area. Our waitress, the maitre d' and the manager checked on the status of our meal multiple times, as other servers milled around the various tables to cater to every patron's need. The more than adequately sized staff provided impeccable service to complement an exquisite meal.

Tempted by the menu, my companion and I ordered two separate desserts. I chose the more conventional creme brulee ($7), and he decided upon banana mango spring rolls. Though the name seems rather odd, it was deceptively delicious -- and the creme brulee was a fitting end to the meal.

For college students who are looking for a low key, trendy place to unwind on a Friday evening after a long week of classes or a family of four in search of elegant dining in the historic section of the city, Novelty embodies its very name.

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