Morton's: A steak-lover's paradise

The Walnut Street facade is fairly nondescript. The plain white door seems vaguely mysterious. There is no one to greet you as you walk in: just an elevator and a staircase.

A newcomer to Morton's of Chicago might well forget that he has just entered one of the city's finest steakhouses.

The Philadelphia branch of the mighty chain, now 61-strong, with outposts all over the world, from its home base in the Windy City to Singapore, does not offer the glitz of its nearby competitors.

But don't let its outward modesty fool you. When you reach the top of the stairs and enter the unpretentious dining room, Morton's begins to reveal just what it is that drives its success both here and around the globe.

For starters, the jumbo lump crab cake ($10.95) is highly recommended. The huge chunks of mouth-watering crabmeat is fair warning: Morton's does not play games. Together with a wonderful mustard mayonnaise sauce, this appetizer is simple -- and phenomenal.

Other notable first courses include a lobster bisque ($10.95), which in spite the cream and brandy remains light and delicious, and the beefsteak tomato salad ($6.95).

Morton's of Chicago is proud of its steaks, and with good reason. Don't expect a traditional menu, at least not at first. Upon seating, your waiter presents you with a cart covered with a variety of fine cuts, all aged at least two weeks. Only after this remarkable visual display are you given a written list of the offerings.

Morton's steaks are what drives in the customers. And the house speciality, the 24-ounce porterhouse ($33.95, 48-ounce cut available for the heartier appetite at $65.95) does not disappoint. Two-thirds porterhouse and one-third filet separated by the bone, the steak is cooked to perfection, tender and juicy. It's truly an extraordinary piece of meat.

But tempting as it is, you may want to consider the other entrees. The prime rib ($30.95) is an impressive sight that is even more impressive to taste.

No steak dinner would be complete without potatoes, and Morton's offers the Idaho variety cooked in a number of ways. The Potatoes Lyonnaise ($4.95) are a true delight, with a lovely hint of the bacon they are cooked with.

But as far as side dishes are concerned, the creamed spinach ($7.95) is king at Morton's of Chicago. The perfect combination of spinach, cream and garlic, the bowl of creamy goodness may well have been the evening's most pleasant surprise.

But for dessert, Morton's doesn't fool around either.

Without question, the Godiva Hot Chocolate Cake ($8.95) is the way to go. A crispy sugar shell covers a soft chocolate cake, which in turn holds the hot chocolate sauce. You won't want to miss this, so be sure to order it with your steak.

And after the cake, you can leave Morton's of Chicago and its non-stop Sinatra soundtrack happy and sated, but you probably will not want to take the stairs.

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