The Half of It | Capogiro’s curdled coffee culture

In an age of instant coffee and Starbucks drive-throughs, why does Capogiro Gelato Artisans discourage customers from espressos and macchiatos to go?

“It doesn’t taste good in a paper cup,” one employee told College sophomore Ali Castleman, who claimed in an email that her request was met with “extreme resistance.”

“They really frowned on it,” College senior Sanae Lemoine added of a friend’s experience with espresso to go.

At Capogiro, employees encourage taking a real coffee break. “Like most things, coffee drinking in America has been redefined to mean on the go, as super-sized and quickly as possible,” general manager Sarah Bonkowski wrote in an email. In Italy and Spain, people take time out of their day to chat with the barista and enjoy their coffee, Bonkowski continued. “We really do want our customers to feel like we’re a part of their lives as opposed to another faceless interaction.”

But as admirable as Capogiro’s intentions may be, some students feel that unnecessary condescension and pretension reign behind the coffee bar. “I felt like they expected me to know they didn’t have flavored syrup,” said Chanel Cleary, a sophomore visiting from the University of San Diego.

“They’re so rude!” exclaimed a student who wished to remain anonymous due to her frequent Capogiro presence. “They sort of lord themselves over everyone,” the student continued, attributing this attitude to Capogiro’s excellent coffee.

And last semester, my own request for a vanilla latte was followed by an employee telling me, “We’re not that kind of place.”

Capogiro’s blog only perpetrates its facade of self-importance. “BAGELS! You want Us To Have Bagels?!?!” reads the title of a company blog posting. “We are Italian, dummy,” the blog reads. “Bagels are for delis and bagel shops, not our cafe!”

With increasing demands from customers, Capogiro did eventually add bagels to the menu.

It was not so quick, however, to add College sophomore Erin Becks’ request. Becks asked an employee to put a scoop of gelato on her Capogiro croissant, offering to pay for the extra scoop. In Italy, this confectionary treat is called “gelato con brioche.” Her request was denied. The employee refused to serve the gelato on a bun that wasn’t brioche, claiming to be “reluctant to put things on the menu that aren’t authentic,” according to Becks.

Capogiro was started after founders John and Stephanie Reitano vacationed in Italy, John’s homeland. The couple grounded many of the shop’s practices in European coffee and gelato tradition. Capogiro offers only one size cappuccino at a temperature lower than normal, allowing for immediate consumption, when the milk and espresso taste their best. It uses local ingredients, and its gelato is made fresh each morning. It doesn’t carry flavored syrup. “We try to keep things as traditional as possible” Bonkowski wrote.

As good as the gelato and as creamy the coffee, adherence to tradition does not merit the slight disdain bestowed on students who are unfamiliar with European coffee culture.

Still, Penn students love Capogiro. College sophomore Zaneta Cheng visits the shop daily. “I literally can sit there 10 hours straight consuming everything they have to offer,” she said.

“They put so much attention into the drink that they’re making for you,” Lemoine said.

In Italian, “capo” and “giro” are the words for “head” and “spinning.” Capogiro, we still love you. Forgive our ignorance and we will assume your condescension has just been a dizzy spell.

Emily Orrson is a College sophomore from Baltimore, Md. Her email address is orrson@theDP.com. The Half of It appears every other Wednesday.

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