Koch's deli is still Koch's

A year after the owner of this campus mainstay died, employees say what he stood for lives on

· December 1, 2006, 5:00 am

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Employees at Koch's Deli serve sandwiches with very generous portions of meat, just as the deli's original owner wanted. Bob Koch died about one year ago, but the new managers say they are keeping his legacy alive.


If you're waiting in line at Koch's Take Out Shop, somebody will probably offer you a free pickle. You'll at least be able to snatch up a slice of cheese or deli meat while you're waiting to order.

These gestures may seem small, but the deli's employees say they define the lasting legacy of Bob Koch, who died last year after owning and managing the business for more than 30 years.

Business is going strong in his absence, employees say, but "Koch's Deli" - as regulars call it - still really belongs to Koch.

The walls of the shop at 43rd and Locust streets are covered with photographs of the legendary owner, as well as letters from the former Penn students who loved him.

"Coming here is like going into the past," said Rami Shabbat as he read over an old letter from former Philadelphia Fire Commissioner Frank Rizzo, a fan of the deli's. Shabbat and his partner Ezra Haim took over management of the deli after Koch's death in August 2005.

The Koch family, who started the business in 1966 and still own it today, asked Shabbat and Haim to cater Bob's funeral. The pair previously worked together at a deli on City Line Avenue.

Soon after that, they took over as the deli's new managers.

"We have big shoes to fill," Shabbat said. But "we are continuing with tradition, the same thing, the same food - nothing changes."

Indeed, the prices of the sandwiches have not increased since Koch passed away, and the portions - about eight or nine ounces of meat per sandwich - are still the same.

And longtime clients are thankful that the new managers have held on to important traditions.

"I've been coming here since I was a little girl," West Philadelphia native Nichole Boyd said as she waited with friends in the restaurant yesterday.

"We loved Koch's because they always fed you, even when you stood in line," she said, referring to the free pickles and cheese slices.

Near the front door, a letter from a former local student is displayed on the wall.

"I miss more than the food. I miss waiting in line with my girlfriend, my father or pledges from my old fraternity, passing cheese slices [and] pickles," reads the letter, from Adam Litvin.

Koch remembered customers' names, Boyd said, and was beloved by his entire clientele.

He was familiar with his customers' preferences, so when Boyd called up and complained that tomatoes had mistakenly been put on her sandwich, Koch apologized and offered her two free sandwiches - one for that day, and one for the next time she returned to the deli.

"Bob was a special man," Shabbat said. "He was very popular."

But it seems that Fran Koch, Bob's mother who started the deli with her husband, was the one who really controlled the business during Bob's ownership.

Fran invented the deli's sandwiches, and "nobody got hired until [she approved their first sandwich] and made sure it was built right," Shabbat said.

Still, the new managers are slowly making a few changes.

Koch's now accepts credit cards and is open for business seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Under the former owner, it was closed on Wednesdays.

Shabbat and Haim are also planning to expand the deli's offerings by adding breakfast foods like bagels and omelettes. They also want to increase the catering side of the business.

Koch's has been consistently featured in the Zagat Survey in recent years, and Haim called the deli "one of the best, if not the best, in Philadelphia."

But they never forget the impressive legacy of their business.

"Whenever we make sandwiches," Shabbat said, "we have Bob watching us."

Comments (6)

Joe

December 31, 1969, 7:00 pm

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Samuel, A correction on your Philly history... Joe Rizzo was Fire Commissioner and Frank Rizzo was mayor....Thanks

David

December 31, 1969, 7:00 pm

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I went to Penn from 75-79. I have fond memories of waiting in line at Koch's and being served by Mr. and Mrs. Koch and their sons Louis and Bobby. We were always treated to meat, cheese, or pickles while we waited and we got a glimpse into the Koch family. I remember Mrs. Koch saying to Louis "you never let a day go by...". At that time Bobby drove a Corvette - he seemed like the family rebel. Now if I could only remember what I learned in Macro Economics as well.

Steven Dreyfus

December 31, 1969, 7:00 pm

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I started at Penn in the autumn of 1970, and for the following four years, I probably spent more time at Koch's than in class. Louis and Bobby, and their parents, knew everyone, and treated all like family. It wasn't unusual to knosh so much while waiting patiently for your sandwich, that you had to delay eating it until the next meal time! Since graduation, I have always made the effort to visit Koch's and get my fix. They were a one of a kind family, and made it a one of a kind eatery.

Shelley Aronson

December 31, 1969, 7:00 pm

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It was always amazing how I could return to Koch's years after graduation (1976), and the Kochs would not only remember me, but also my usual order (roast beef, turkey & swiss with Russian, kasha knish, vanilla milkshake). My son's birth announcement may still be on the wall somewhere. It was an honor to have introduced my son, my wife, her sister and her children to the Kochs. Also, I recall Koch's as a melting pot of society, where students and "real" community people, whites and blacks, policemen and long-hairs, and straights and gays conversed and shared the passed-around food while waiting. Anyone remember that Urban Outfitters got its start next door? Before the store is ever transformed, please be sure to give the social historians and sociologists at the U a crack at its contents.

disgruntled and starving!

December 31, 1969, 7:00 pm

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It is a sad state of journalistic affairs when a sophomore, who has never tasted a Koch's sandwich, is responsible for glorifying the late great Bob Koch. Ironies abound. That aside, the article could not be more mistaken. When Bob died, it sent a pulse through my house last year, where eight regulars would typically convene around restaurant school specials and, in my case, a vat of delicious potato salad. All maintained a level of optimism as ownership changed hands, and all were let down. Again... and again. The ownership, though friendly enough, lacks the charisma to maintain such a Philly staple. The deli is eerlil quiet on weekdays, and the sliced meats and cheeses appear for circulation far too sparingly. Yet saddest is the transformation of the sandwiches. They have gone from carnivore delights to 'weight watcher approved.' On one occasion, my roast beef on rye was so puny, I called back to tell them about Bob's legacy, and how they were in jeopardy of comprimising it. No apology. No 'come on back, we'll pile on some more.' Just a half-assed defense of their portions and an insistance that I get my eyes checked. I never returned again. If only Bob could see this place now...

MYC

June 16, 2010, 11:46 pm

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alent name, the much correct patterns of accessories, the immensely first-rate amassed items. charmi

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