Words like spectacular, overwhelming and magnificent do no credit to a restaurant like Striped Bass. What chef Terence Feury and owner Neil Stein have succeeded in creating is a masterpiece of understated excellence. From the setting to the waitstaff to the food, Striped Bass is an entirely satisfying dining experience -- simply place yourself in the restaurant's hands, and allow yourself to be pampered, wined and dined. The setting for this dining experience is an attraction in its own right: a vaguely art deco dining room -- familiar to movie-goers from its appearance in The Sixth Sense -- framed by pillars with a coffered ceiling looming impossibly high overhead. There is, of course, little hint of the Maine lobster shack or Cajun grill in all of this classical splendor. And so, it is left to the menu to remind patrons that this is a seafood-only restaurant. Ah, but the menu -- here unfolds a listing of the sea's treasures. A veritable cornucopia of sole, salmon, bass and tuna; monk, mahimahi and swordfish too; delectable oysters and clams; lobster, shrimp and caviar as well. The oyster sampler, presented on the half shell by a waiter with an impressive command of the origins of each specimen, was complimented by an excellent frozen vinaigrette sauce, which added a wonderful tang to the dish. Those looking for appetizer options other than oysters with class might turn to the delightfully understated yellowfin tuna tartare. An accompanying beet salad provided an excellent counterpoint to the smooth flavor of the yellowfin, aiding a smoky flair to the dish. Our waiter, well-prepared to help the unsophisticated choose a wine for the evening, gently guided us into the selection of a Routas "Coquelicot" Viognier/ Chardonnay blend. The 1998 Provence vintage is a 70-30 mix of Chardonnay and Viognier, and its crisp, slightly fruity taste complimented the oysters and yellowfin par excellence. The entrees, however, were the meal's crowning glory. The roasted Chilean Sea Bass was masterfully prepared. The dish flaked delicately onto the fork and melted in the mouth, carrying enough flavor to establish its character without overwhelming the pallet. And what flavor. The Chilean Sea Bass -- currently all the rage at restaurants of all stripes -- is carried off magnificently by Feury. So much so, in fact, that the accompanying chorizo vinaigrette went untouched in tribute to the sea bass, whose excellence obviated the need for an accompanying sauce. The winter vegetables, however, were sparse in quantity and not of particularly noteworthy quality. This, perhaps, is a reflection on the status of winter vegetables in general and their place at a seafood restaurant in particular. Other entrees are equally worthy of a trip to 15th and Walnut. The grilled swordfish, presented with cardamom-scented basmati rice and ginger-pepper jelly, was neither overly fishy nor overly spiced -- two dangers swordfish often dances with -- instead delighting the pallette with its understated flavor. And the basmati rice did fine service as an accompaniment to the dish. It is rare that a main course leaves room for dessert, but Striped Bass is a rare restaurant, and we were clearly in the hands of a masterful team. It was therefore no surprise that dessert seemed the natural and perfect end to a completely satisfying meal. The superb creme broulee and, again at our waiter's recommendation, a lovely fruity dessert wine, numbered among the dessert menu's highlights. An apparent eagerness to remove our appetizer plates while both oysters and tuna tartare remained was perhaps the evening's only service glitch. The meal was otherwise well-served and well-paced, and particular credit is due to the waitstaff for their tact and patience in guiding the relatively inexperienced through the pleasures of formal dining. Striped Bass suggests jackets for men. Reservations are required -- the restaurant once turned away the President of the United States on a Saturday night because he neglected to make one.
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